aixcentric

Before we get to the future of J1, just a few words about Fort St Jean.

MUCEM gets much of the attention and deservedly so, but the renovation of Fort St Jean has been equally spectacular considering what a sad run-down old building it was. It would have been easy to turn it into another exhibition venue but instead it was transformed into a fabulous free space for eating and picnicking, for climbing up for views, for sunbathing, for boat-spotting.

Until recently a dilapidated old building

Now a fabulous open space for enjoying the views

The attention to detail has been admirable with its provision of wide steps, large rocks and ledges for impromptu seating as well as polished wooden sun-loungers. The Mediterranean planting scheme is inspired and I love the vegetable gardens supplying the restaurant.

We sat there one summer day watching the armada of 2013 boats sailing past, a popular event, but the old fort absorbed crowds of people with ease. Its military past, as a defensive tower and then a WW2 ammunition store for the occupying troops, is behind it. How wonderful that it is now dedicated to peaceful pursuits with local families able to enjoy the superb position at the mouth of the Vieux Port. Well done to architect Roland Carta who worked with Rudy Riccotti to effect this transformation and landscape architects APS from Valence.

Meanwhile, along the seafront at J1, there is a debate as to what will happen to the superb hangar once the year of culture is over.  To my astonishment I read that there is a proposal to turn it into a casino…or to site a casino next to MUCEM.  http://www.laprovence.com/article/actualites/2668151/poker-menteur-autour-du-casino-de-marseille.html  I always thought people in casinos sat in darkened and curtained rooms (or is that just in films?) – they don’t need a prime sea-view – do they?