There are so many places to eat in Aix that La Provence reckoned that you could eat at a different restaurant or café every day of the year. Now there’s a challenge!
The tourist office have a useful listing of all 507 restaurants and bars with a search engine for pinpointing your choice of cuisine. Click here: http://book.aixenprovencetourism.com/aix-restaurants.htm
The glossy establishments in town get lots of publicity. But sometimes it’s nice to find somewhere in a quiet backstreet where you can find home-cooking and support new, young enterprises.
Restaurants in Aix though have a habit of closing down without warning so do please check them out before travelling specially to these recommendations!
Le Jardin d’Amalula
Good for: Shady garden, off the tourist trail; healthy light lunches
This restaurant is currently riding high on Tripadvisor despite the fact that it only recently opened. That is quite an achievement and so I had to investigate. But I had an added incentive when I realised that it was in the former premises of ‘Thé a Theme’ which was a very popular lunch-spot and much missed when it closed.
It’s a special little resto in that it is hidden from view, tucked away down a quiet passage and a lovely surprise when you discover the ancient dining room and shady leafy garden. The new proprietors have smartened it all up but its essential charm remains.
They offer a range of tartines which come with salad and jacket potatoes, tarte of the day, and salads, all 11-15€. After that you can choose from a range of desserts – lemon meringue, tiramisu, chocolat moelleux – or have a café gourmand which is a little espresso with various tiny desserts on the plate.
I had an excellent tartine of Brie, honey and hazelnuts, a great combination and here is M. Aixcentric’s Tartine Italienne. They were presented beautifully – I was impressed by the lettuce leaves bundled together with a cucumber strip to make a little tree on the plate!
There is no Amalula by the way. It’s an amalgamation of the friendly hostess’s 3 daughters: Amandine, Lucille and Laurine who is in the kitchen.
It’s open 8:30 (for breakfasts) – 18:30; Mon-Sat. At 7 Rue Mignet, Aix. Details: http://www.amalula.fr/ or check out Tripadvisor.
Good for: funky décor, very original. Excellent food
Lunch today at a restaurant where I just wanted to run away with all the lamps! They are all different, really unusual and perfect for the arty/funky ambiance at Drole d’Endroit. The big wooden beams across the ceiling seem to marry well with the modern steel girders,and the room is decorated with large black and white photos, flowers and pops of colour in the form of pretty vases on the tables.
The restaurant is truly ‘tucked away’ – it’s in a tiny alleyway off rue Bédarrides but it is obviously well-liked as it fills up quickly at lunchtime and reservations are needed for evening dining. There is the obligatory blackboard with chalked suggestions for entrées, plats and desserts. Main courses are 13,2o€ – my vegetarian plate of stuffed tomato, tasty lentil salad, cream of courgette soup and red peppers marinated in olive oil was excellent and filling. Lots of choice of fish and meat dishes. Puds included tiramisu, panna cotta and cheesecake, all 6€.
Outside tables available; service quick; very friendly people. Apparently their weekly music evenings (unobtrusive jazz, or rock or blues) are great fun. Check out the website on: http://www.droledesite.fr/
La Table des Saisons
Good for: Friendly welcome; excellent patissier in open kitchen
Day 3 of the New Year regime and we were in search of a light lunch. These are getting much easier to come by now in Aix but I happened across a new restaurant advertising itself as a saladerie and tarterie. Just the job!
The tartes looked good – what regime? – but the tarte fine aux echalottes was, Martina explained, not up to their usual standard so advised a salad. My dining companion did have a meat-based tarte which came with a stuffed champignon de Paris , puree of carrots and coriander and a gratin de pommes de terre et poireaux. These main courses at 10-12€ are very good value.
There are various patisseries for dessert. If you aren’t aspiring to losing kilos, you can opt for the plat-dessert-coffee deal for 15€, or plat-dessert-wine for 16€. During the afternoon, the home-made patisseries are for sale with different teas.
After I had finished my salad, the chef came over to explain that he had been experimenting with his tartes fines aux echalottes but that they were not yet to his satisfaction. They are changing the menu regularly and seem committed to quality cuisine. I wish them well.
La Table des Saisons is open daily 11:30-18:30, closed Wednesdays. At at 6 rue Lieutard; further details here: http://latabledessaisons.com/
La Table des Saisons – Update three years later…
It’s a while since we have visited La Table des Saisons so were happy on a recent visit to find the same standards of quality that this young couple have insisted on from week one back in December 2013.
The chef is Lionel who has 20 years’ experience as a patissier, both in France and abroad, and he makes all the plats and desserts in-house. His partner Martina welcomes their customers and is happy to explain how the dishes are made – in English and Slovak as well as French.
We had a delightful lunch, unhurried, calm atmosphere and unobtrusive service, ideal for a catch-up with friends.
The menu of course changes with the seasons – have a look at their website -https://latabledessaisons.com/ – they have special dishes of the week, alongside a variety of savoury tartes and salads. Desserts are Lionel’s speciality and I had an unforgettable ‘Delice poire, pain d’épices’ (pictured).
Open: Daily, except Wednesday, for lunch and as a salon de thé during the afternoon.
They also open for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
Address: 6 rue Lieutaud, Aix. 04 42 22 97 07.
Traiteur service: one can order savoury and sweet tarts, salads and a range of aperitifs to wow your guests at home, with 48 hours’ notice.
Prices: very reasonable. During the week, various formules are available at lunchtime. Here is the board……
Crepes, Cidre & Compagnie
Good for: pancakes obvs! Cosy cellar for cold days
Breton Delphine has two hot-plates from which she produces a never-ending stream of savoury galettes and sweet crepes.
It’s a very relaxed and friendly place to have lunch but I would recommend reserving a table as it is so small – two tables by the counter and another four in the cosy basement.
I tried the galette forestiere, a whole-flour pancake with wild mushrooms, goats cheese and cream. It was delicious but incredibly filling – so I will have to assume the crepes for dessert are equally good.
Le Garde Manger
Good for: a light lunch or snack in spacious premises, and thus somewhere to sit!
Downstairs there’s a big café with a terrace, or you can climb up to the first floor lounge area, or keep going out on to the upstairs terrace which overlooks the
Cours Sextius. It’s been nicely renovated (it used to be a bar) with huge windows, trendy industrial lighting, stripped-back brick walls, beams, pretty furniture…….and newspapers and magazines lying around just waiting to be read.
Le Garde Manger is owned by twin sisters, Pauline and Josepha, whose mother was responsible for the palm-tree décor along the bar.
Food, ‘fait maison’, is fresh and healthy. There are 3 formules at breakfast time, while lunch comprises different types of quiche (tried today….excellent), soups, salads, and a couple of hot dishes. The cakes looked good and there are different types of teas and juices. As it’s all freshly prepared, it’s understandable that when I visited towards the end of the day last week, the selection was reduced, worth bearing in mind. The only complaint I would have is plastic cutlery….flimsy and not environmentally friendly.
Le Garde Manger is, I think, a good addition to the Aix eating scene and chapeau to the two sisters, both under 30, for their enterprise! Thank you to Lucy for introducing me to this café.
Details: 35-37 cours Sextius. Open Mon-Sat, 8:00-18:00.
Good for: Open air dining. Family-friendly menus
According to the dictionary, a bidule is a what’s-it or a thingummy or a whatjacallit, which is an odd name for a Provencal brasserie. It’s situated right down at the bottom of the place des Cardeurs and we tried it for lunch last week.
And a reasonable lunch we had. The salad was an average salad, la belle-fille Aixcentric was happy with her burger and (home-made) frites, and le petit-fils Aixcentric enjoyed his child’s special of steak haché and frites. The menu was basically salads and burgers with some specials, plus the usual desserts. It doesn’t really distinguish itself from other places – no USP in marketing terms – and maybe that’s why it’s called itself after a what’s-it?
We thought its plus was a very young, happy atmosphere. The place was full by 12.30 and we liked the bright waxed cloths on the tables (all the better to spill
your water on if you are a three-year-old) and the bunting and strings of lights. It must look pretty at night. I would say ideal for a young family or teenagers.
Le Bidule, 1 place des Cardeurs. Open 7/7, 9:00-02:00hrs.
Good for: Italian favourites. Warm for winter dining
We happened upon La Familia by chance just before Christmas and were struck by the warmth of the welcome and the welcome warmth from the feu de bois oven as we went into the restaurant. That’s what you need on a chilly damp November day!
The menu is on a blackboard and has a wide range of pizzas (they looked good), fresh pastas and salads. We opted for the tatin des legumes which was delicious and at 10€, good value.
I think this is what the French call ‘une tres bonne addresse’ because shortly after midday, the restaurant was pretty full.
You can find it at 20 rue Boulegon (04 42 23 51 58). It’s open daily, lunch time and evening, except Sundays and Monday lunchtimes.
Good for: Italian and French favourites; Warm for winter dining
Just a quick call- out for Chez Jo, an institution in Aix. We popped in there for lunch last week on a bright sunny day but the mistral was blowing its chilly passage through the streets of centre ville. Not a day for lunching on the terrace.
Inside this restaurant is a big wood-fired pizza oven, very attractive all of a sudden!
The menu includes all the usual pizzas and Provencal-Italian pasta dishes. Check out the menu here: http://www.pizzeriachezjo.com/
The pizza I had was excellent and my dining companions enjoyed the plat du jour which, through mouthfuls, they said was daurade stuffed with courgette mousse in a crème fraiche, mushroom and tomato sauce. No-one had space for dessert but there are all the usual suspects at a French resto – profiteroles, crème brulées, tartes.
Deservedly, this place is popular. We got there at 12 on the dot and by 12.15, tables were full and people were queuing.
Chez Jo is in the place des Augustins, at the bottom of rue Espariat.
La Table Marocaine
Good for: North African Specialities. Very warming
Here’s a warm recommendation for cold days. I’ve been wanting to try La Table Marocaine for a while now and this week enjoyed a good lunch with a fellow blogger. Have a look at www.sociologicalobserver.com for Anne’s comments on life in Aix.
They have a website www.latablemarocaine.com which gives their menus. The tagines and couscous we tried were excellent and we followed with patisseries orientales and thé a la menthe. I would suggest getting there soon after 12 though as it is a small resto and filled up really quickly. Always a good sign!
Details: La Table Marocaine at 10 rue Constantin. 04 42 96 05 54, open everyday lunch-times and evenings.
Good for: Quiches and salads. Tiny.
The display in the window (above) was starting to get depleted even though it was before mid-day. Stocks do get replenished. There are quiches for meat-eaters and vegetarians, at 2.20€ and large salads – I’d advise one between two sharing. The puddings look great but we didn’t get that far.
Good for: Italian menu; light lunches. Stylish. Small terrace
The small terrace, next to the Hotel St Christophe near the Rotonde, gives no clue as to the large number of seats inside.
It’s a cross between an Italian restaurant and a deli, and has been decorated very stylishly indeed.
There are nooks for having an apero (see above) or for playing the piano, or for choosing some Italian delicacies or wines to take home. The menu offers panini, tramezzini, focaccia, plates of charcuterie, cassolettes, salads and pastas as well as desserts. It’s downloadable at http://www.marasino.fr.
We had a snack there after a French class and all opted for panini, so didn’t really put the options to the test. But the service was friendly and I did like the very Italian vibe.
Details: 2 bis Ave Victor Hugo. Tuesday-Saturday 9-22:00. Reservations on 04 4 200 200.
Good for: light lunches, snacks. Terrace
This is just a few paces from the Rotonde (ave Victor Hugo) and offers lots of alternatives for a light lunch, dans l’esprit slow food.
Here’s how it works. You take a printed menu sheet, write on your name, tick your choices and pay the genial proprietaire at the till. Your lunch is made to order from fresh ingredients and your name is called for you to claim it.
They have 50 variations of petits pains chauds (1,90€ each) – pictured my choice of artichoke, piperade and Parmesan, plus melon, mozzarella and rocket – which can be accompanied by a simple salad or crisps at 1€ extra. Or you can have the ‘formule papilles’ for 9,80 – 3 sandwiches, dessert and drink – or one of the 7 salad plates on offer. As the menu says, it’s a case of ‘Choisissez, Cochez, Commandez’.
It gets the thumbs up from Aixcentric because it’s central, provides a fresh, light lunch, and has bags of seating both inside and out. Details and menus on www.laurane.fr. I think your taste-buds will be happy!
Good for: Light food, snacks. Terrace
Maison Nosh has been in the Tripadvisor top three Aix restaurants for some time now and so I was keen to try, despite the rather odd name. And I liked it. They offer hotdogs, pork, beef or tofu, with different rolls, toppings and dressings; soups and salads; and something called ‘muffin anglaise’ with different fillings.
Though a committed vegetarian, I couldn’t face a tofu hotdog….so tried a veggie muffin which is nothing like an English muffin but a soft bap/bread bun, with goats cheese, courgettes, mesclun, tomates sechées and an excellent mustard dressing.
The ambiance is very young….everyone seemed to know each other, mwah mwah. It’s run by Chris and Julie, designers by trade, who have chosen a sort of industrial-chic-meets-Scandi-wood vibe which works fine. I believe they ran ‘Brooklynette’ which was fun but tiny, then a ‘Maison Nosh’ in rue Espariat. This new café givens them much more room, indoors and out. Good to see that they are serving a Sunday brunch – 19€ – must try.
Details: 42 cours Sextius, just near the fountain, opposite rue des Cordeliers. Mon-Sat 10-18:00hrs; Sunday for brunch 11-16:00.
New branch in the cours Mirabeau, opened end 2016. Sunday brunch by reservation only as it is small.
Good for: Snacks. Eat in or tables in square by fountain
Bagelstein, another popular place for a snack is a different proposition in that it is a franchise operation with outlets all over France. It has jokey posters and sayings and ‘infidelity’ cards around the place, just as though it is run by a quirky person, but of course it is all part of its corporate offer.
As you would expect they offer lots of different types of bagels and lots of different fillings. You go along a counter with plastic-gloved personnel customising your lunch. Their menus are on the chalk-board or you can see beforehand on http://www.bagelstein.com. Mine was very tasty and good value for money.
Like Maison Nosh, the clientele are young, studenty and spill out around the nearby fountain. I visited the branch at 11 rue Isolette, near place des Tanneurs. Open 10-22 Mon-Sat, 10:30-17, Sunday. There’s also a branch at 59 rue d’Italie.
I think both are fine options when you just want to sit down, have a rest and a hearty snack to see you through the afternoon.
===================================================Columbus Café – a place with a surprise!
Good for: Snacks. Unique interior architecture
In search of a lunchtime snack today, I happened across Columbus Café which I hadn’t seen before. It has a good array of fresh salads, filled baguettes, and toasted paninis and bagels, plus muffins which they say are made on the premises.
It was a perfectly good lunch but what was interesting is what I found inside. At first glance, it seems to be a very small café with limited seating, relying more on take-aways; but it stretches back and upstairs, into what was the 14th century chapel of the Augustine Convent!
What a surprise. It’s been very tastefully converted to provide spacious eating areas and I would recommend a visit, if you want a snack in town.
At first I thought this café was a one-off, but a google search revealed that it is part of a franchise-chain with Columbus Cafés across France and also the Middle East. The Aix one can be found at 7 rue de la Masse, just off the cours Mirabeau (and there is also one at 3 rue Emeric David).
There can’t be many eateries with a 635 year old angel watching over the diners!
Good for: You guessed – Cheese! Stylish. Roof-top terrace
La Fromagerie in the passage Agard which opened a couple of months ago is nothing if not stylish. I called in there recently and was dazzled by decor and the variety of cheeses on offer but I had one choice in mind: Cheddar. I know I shouldn’t be buying English cheese in France but it really is the only possible ingredient for Cauliflower Cheese in the Aixcentric household.
Now, 0.27kg of cheddar for 8.70€ did strike me as being rather excessive but it was strong and very tasty in my dish. And I was interested to find out what lunch there is like.
Diners can choose from a small dining room on the 1st floor or climb further up to the roof-top terrace which has parasols and heaters, both required in this exposed spot among the roof-tops of Aix.
The lunch menu has a fairly good choice. My companions opted for Tataki de Thon, fromage blanc au Thé Matcha (19€) and Hamburger de Boeuf a la Fumainson de Brebis (17€) and I got the one vegetarian option which was Penne Rigate au Gorgonzola Cremificato with Poire rôti aux noix (15€).
Clearly the theme is cheese in everything!
But mine was delicious, especially the roasted pear in the middle which I am going to try and recreate chez moi.
The desserts were all cheese-based too – we shared a cheese-cake with sorbet pêche – which was OK but a little claggy.
Verdict? Delicious main courses all round, very cool atmosphere (great for taking visitors), slow service (not always a bad thing), reasonable prices……….but next time I’ll get my Cheddar in Carrefour.
Good for: Copious and inventive buffet. Some outside seating.
I hadn’t been in this restaurant since it was ‘Le Passage’ where I was massively disappointed with a vegetarian salad which turned out to be a heap of leaves, for 17€. It was a shame because it is such an interesting building. During the 19th century it was a busy factory producing sweets and calissons, using local almonds and fruits. Like many of these industrial spaces, it lends itself well to the demands of modern restauration.
The new owners have injected an Eastern vibe into the decor to match their eclectic Asian buffet à volonté: a huge Buddha gently surveys diners circling the three large central tables. The first table has a large variety of salads, braised leeks, eggs mayonnaise, champignons à la grecque, and various fish and meat starters. The second had a wide choice of meat and fish dishes, nems, shrimps, sushi, with different versions of rice and noodles. And finally a lovely array of desserts – little glasses of chocolate mousse or creamy rice pudding, cheesecakes, tiny tartes tropeziennes….So much temptation.
The restaurant sits 350 inside + 35 on the terrace. It was really full yesterday when we visited so you must book. Our verdict was pretty positive. We did find it a bit cold when we arrived but it soon warmed up. The fish-eaters thought the quality varied – some of the dishes were a little dry. They all though really liked the fish which was cooked to order on the grill and brought to the table.
As a vegetarian, I was delighted to have a choice. That’s a luxury for me round here. And I love the pretty eastern decor.
And at 17,90€ per person (without drinks), we all thought it was excellent value for money. A super idea for Chinese New Year celebrations.
It’s the 4th restaurant in a chain – the others are Zen La Valentine, Zen La Mer, Zen La République. Full details on www.ozen-restaurant.fr. 10 Rue Villars, 04 42 370 900.
The original workers who used to churn out sweets for local consumption and for export are not forgotten in the restaurant – there’s a large photo of them upstairs (left) and pix of the factory in action throughout the restaurant. A nice touch.
La Cerise sur le Gateau
Good for: Vegetarians. Tiny – Some tables outside.
This is Aix’s only bio, vegetarian restaurant. Owner Stéphanie explained to us that there is another vegetarian restaurant (La Cantine Végéterienne) and several bio restos – but hers is the only one that is both.
- Quiche with leeks and butternut squash
- Gratin of potatoes, red cabbage and parsnips (yay!)
- Courgette stuffed with vegetables and tofu
- Wheat cooked with blettes, tomatoes, feta and tofu
- Salad of radis noir, red cabbage, cucumber topped with germinated seeds.
Her menu says it all: ‘Pas de micro-onde ici – juste 2 petits bras qui s’agitent avec bonne volunté’. And it is literally two arms most of the year as Stéphanie only brings in a waiter during the summer months.
We liked the ambiance – mis-matched chairs, pretty waxed table cloths, wall-lights and lots of tea-pots. Best of all was the friendly atmosphere. Plats start at 12,30€, the plat degustation was 17€ with desserts – mainly home-made cookies and muffins – for a few additional euros.
La Cerise sur la Gâteau is closed Sundays and Wednesdays. Open for lunches from 12-16:00hrs. Tel: 04 42 27 46 46.
It is a tiny place and people were waiting patiently for our table today. Best go early.
Good for: Exotic escapism on a cold day
For a cosy eastern experience, why not head to Orienthé in centre ville? We dived in there one day, out of a cold late afternoon wind, and loved the warm ambiance they provide. You leave your shoes at the door and find a nice heap of cushions to sink into. The small room is illuminated by lanterns and decorated with all sorts of glittering wall-hangings. Seduced by the waft of incense and soothed by flowery-citrussy teas from silver pots, the hassles of everyday life seem far away. Well, until you have to get up off the floor which is an increasing challenge !
This is such an unusual hideaway and one of my favourite treats in Aix.
5 rue Felibre Gaut, Aix (off rue des Cordeliers). Open everyday 13:00-01:00hrs.
Basilic & Citronelle
Good for: Light lunches. Inside only
Here is a pleasant place for a light lunch in Aix, just a few paces from the cours Mirabeau. A group of us tried ‘Basilic & Citronnelle’ which is a small restaurant at 5 rue de l’Opéra. They offer a plat du jour, various quiches and also an assiette végétarienne They have home-made pâtisseries for afters and with coffee, the bill came to just under 20€ each.
Good for: Best pizza in town according to my French neighbours. Take-away only.
There’s always a queue at Pizza Capri and that’s not surprising since they serve up slices of gooey, cheesy Italian heaven. The only downside is that until now you have had to eat it in the street; but there’s a current promotion with nearby cafes means you can eat your pizza on their premises as long as you buy a drink. So, for instance, you could just walk up the cours Mirabeau a few paces and find a seat at Le Roi Rene which has a nice terrace overlooking the statue. They will welcome you (and your slice) from 15:00-18:30 and after 22:00hrs. Other partner terraces include Chez Mus (opp Town Hall), Happy Days in Richeleme Square and the Sextius Bar, though I would have thought it would have cooled off by the time you got to cours Sextius. You can find details of all 9 participating cafes, and the hours they have specified, in a leaflet (in English!) at Pizza Capri, 1 rue Fabrot – just alongside the Deux Garcons.
Good for: Elegant cuisine. Fabulous 18th century terrace and dining rooms
We locals have been watching the ongoing work on the 300 year old mansion, the Hotel Caumont, for two years now as workmen repaired the roof, stonemasons worked on the ancient façade, and lorries drove in and out of what would be the garden area.
Twenty million euros later, all has been revealed and what an elegant renovation it is.
The ground floor is taken up with a large shop and a café and restaurant spilling out into the garden. Upstairs, there are two floors with galleries, currently showing the work of Canaletto.
You can eat or have a coffee without paying to see the exhibitions. You have to go to the ticket desk at the entrance and ask for a Café Pass.
The food is very French, very elegantly served: salads all week, quiches and plats du jours on weekdays, brunch at the weekend. The ingredients were top quality
and carefully presented rather than being filling. About 16-18€. The desserts are patisseries served from a counter inside – what a choice! They obviously have a very good patisserie chef.
They offer a child’s menu for 9€ which is good but it does seem a rather formal setting for little ones – for instance, polite notices tell you to keep off the grass.
The lower garden is stunning with a typically Provencal fountain against the far wall, lines of perfectly tailored trees and huge pots of white flowers. I’m not normally into formal French gardens, my English soul preferring our blossoming billowing herbaceous borders, but the Hotel Caumont garden is simply lovely.
You can read here http://www.caumont-centredart.com/fr/decouvrir/restauration-lhotel-caumont/restauration-jardins how they found landscape architect Robert de Cotte’s original plans in the archives and how they adapted them.
Open daily. Details – http://www.caumont-centredart.com/fr/preparer-sa-visite
What a wonderful experience and a big plus for Aix. Chapeau to Culturespaces!
Tour de France with knife and fork
Speciality restaurants abound in Aix so it’s not surprising to learn that you can do a Tour de France in centre ville, sampling all sorts of regional cuisines.
O Panier Normand which opened recently in rue Cordeliers is run by a couple from Gouttiere in Normandy – a place-name which gives rise to local jokes as it rains so much. You can eat in – they have meals based on regional dishes – or you can stock up on camemberts, calvados, jams, cider and rillettes de foie gras. 20 rue des Cordeliers.
Moving on to the Basque country, two young men from that region have taken over the K Val restaurant which is now decked out in the traditional colours while the owners are often to be seen in Basque berets or the foulards bayonnais. Fish-lovers can try the seche facon Saint-Jean-de-Luz farcie au jambon de Bayonne, while to drink there is Irouleguy AOC from Basse-Navarre. Finish with Basque cakes with shots of Izarra, a local liqueur. La K Val des Basques, 2 place Joachim Gasquet.
Alsace is represented in town too. The restaurant Alsace en Provence offers sauerkraut marinated in Edelzwicker which is a wine made from 3 varieties of grapes. They also serve baeckeoffe aux trois viandes sur lit de patates or Spatzeles, fresh pasta fried with eggs and accompanied by Riesling or Sylvaner, both AOCs of the region. They also sell food to take away including their blueberry jam or Meteor beer. 3 rue Jacques-de-la-Roque.
Next to Savoie where fondues feature on the menu. Beaufort, emmenthal, comté and raclette cheeses are brought to Aix from a co-operative in Thones in Savoie and the charcuterie too comes from the region. It’s a little like a chalet – expect an atmosphere ‘rustique chic’. La Luge, rue Felibre Gaut.
Crepes Cidre & Compagnie specialises of course in Breton cooking. It was started in 2010 by a lady from Finistere who wanted to emulate Breton hospitality and savoir-faire. Working alone, she makes all sorts of crepes, using flour from the last water-driven mill in Pont-l’Abbé. Lots of cider – or you can try her whisky or eau-de-vie breton. You can order crepes by the dozen if you are having a party. 23 rue de la Cépéde.
Corsican products are on sale at Stella Corsu. You can find fromage de brebis and chevre Sisti, charcuterie (coppa, lonzu), paté de sanglier, de figatelli……….plus honey and Corsican oils and wines. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the young owner has products like he used to sell on the market at Ajaccio – chausson aux oignions, aux blettes et brocciu for instance. Each day he has a different dish, using seasonal products. 7 rue Portalis.
Overseas now to try cuisine Créole. La Case Créole has specialities from the Caribbean, la Reunion and Madagascar. The owner, herself from Madagascar, says that her dishes reflect the cross-cultural influences of these countries. There is Asiatic ravioli stuffed with pork or shrimps, samosas, spciy specialities from Guadaloupe and Martinique or rougail saucisse, the traditional dish in La Reunion. Rue Aumone-Vieille.
And finally – Le Comté d’Aix. This restaurant has been serving Provencal food now for 30 years but the current chef has been there for just three. He is from Les Milles and trained at the lycée hotelier at Sisteron – so he knows his local ingredients. He is committed to serving fresh products – meat flambéd in pastis or fish of the day with a pistou crumble. And to finish – what else but une mousse de calisson? That sounds good! 17 rue de la Couronne.