Posts Tagged ‘Panier’

A cartoon-based gastro-guide in Aix

An olive-based trail in Marseille’s Panier


Graeco-Roman Banquets in Marseille’s Jardin des Vestiges



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Francois Hollande will be in Marseille on Saturday 12th to officially open the MP2013 Year of Culture.

Along with Aurelie Filippetti, the Minister for Culture, and European Commission President José Manuel Barroso, he will be at MUCEM (the new museum for the Mediterranean region) to lay the final stone.  The ceremony will take place at 15:00hrs. 

What a pity the museum won’t be open until June!

Anyway you can get a sneak preview on Sunday 13th: they are having a Portes Ouvertes when the architect Rudy Riccotti will be present.  It looks to be a really interesting and impressive building.  Details on the MP2013 website (remember I’ve put a tab at the top of the blog where I’m sticking all the useful MP2013 links).

BTW, M Barroso will be in Aix  that morning for the inauguration of the ‘L’árt à l’Endroit’  trail of installations.

I don’t expect the President will have time for a wander round the Panier while he is in town – a pity as it is such an engaging quartier.bardupanierLynneAlderson 

Today’s Guardian has a really useful guide to shopping there – the journalist has uncovered some funky little shops, thanks to her guide.  She had booked a trip with a ‘greeter’, one of a group of locals who take people sightseeing free of charge, just happy to pass on their love for their city.

Details are on www.marseilleprovencegreeters.com and the link to the article is below.


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A world away from the noisy travaux which are turning the Vieux Port roads into a pedestrianised zone, the Panier, Marseille’s oldest quartier is quietly blossoming with creative talent.

The stone steps leading visitors up between the ancient narrow buildings are worn and shiny in the spring sun. Children spill out on to doorsteps and washing dries in the warm air.

 Opposite the Vieille Charité where the Hundertwasser exhibition attracted over 4,000 people in its first 3 days of opening (see separate post), there is a square which is attracting more and more small cafés and informal restos; it’s a great place to try that Marseille speciality panisse – a deep-fried chick-pea burger. 

Le Panier Gourmand adds them to most of the lunch dishes – I tried them with a provençale salad and a welcome glass of red wine.  Served with lots of fresh bread and followed by coffee, it came to around 15€.

Elsewhere there are little pottery shops run by local artists, a savonnerie, and a shop selling soaps and promotional ephemera from the industry which was such a wealth-generator for Marseille for centuries.  It’s a wonderful area to sit in the sun, enjoy, explore and drink in the atmosphere. It really is like nowhere else.  The tourist office have maps and there is a petit-train to take the elderly or the little ones up all those steep streets.  Whichever way you get there, it’s a step out of time and worth discovering.


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