It’s not often you get back from lunch in Marseille with sand between your toes but that happened yesterday after a trip to dine at Pointe Rouge. La Provence had recommended ‘O Pedalo’ whose terrasse is literally in the sea – and I just had to try it.
The navette or water-taxi from the Vieux Port (3€ each way, on the hour) drops you 40 minutes later at Pointe Rouge
which is one of the last beaches before the headlands and calanques. This trip is in itself is a treat on a sunny day, sailing through the port out past the Chateau d’If then along the coast past yachts skimming the surface and ferries ploughing through the sea.
O Pedalo is the last in a row of restaurants lining the sandy beach. It’s run by two brothers who have been in business here for the past 20 years. Their motto is ‘etre souriant et serieux’ and they take pride in having very fresh ingredients.
The menu is pretty eclectic with fish and seafood to the fore….loup, daurade, sardines calamars entiers grillés, salads, soups, pizzas and pastas. La Provence praised their seiche entire grillée, soupe de poisons de roche maison and la souris d’agneau au thym et romarin. During the week, they have an express menu at 10 or 13,90€, and the wine list features mainly local Cotes de Provence wines. 
My three dining companions had various fish dishes which they enjoyed and I was very happy with a vegetarian alternative which was for once cooked properly and with attention – a spaghetti pesto with masses of fresh basil, tomatoes and cheese in a delicious sauce. Desserts were just ices and sorbets from the freezer which was disappointing; but the service was impeccable and very friendly.
Afterwards, we climbed down a wooden ladder onto the beach and paddled all the way along through the warm sea to get the boat back to town. It was hard to believe we were in France’s second city. This is a delightful summer’s treat and I should think a fun excursion with visitors. The only fly in the ointment could be the capacity of the boat, especially during peak holiday season. Best maybe to have details of the buses too.
O Pedalo is open daily in the summer months – 11:45-14:30 and 19:30-23:00hrs. It closes from November to March each year.
aixcentric 