Posted in Event, Film, tagged Aix-en-Provence, Billy Elliot, France, Jamie Bell, Judi Dench, Lars von Trier, Nymphomaniac, Steve Coogan, Yves Saint Laurent on December 30, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Wednesday, 1st Jan, sees the opening of ‘Nymphomaniac’, the latest film from Danish director Lars von Trier who says that he was inspired by Proust. Various actresses including Charlotte Gainsburg play the central character whose erotic development is charted. ‘Perplexing, perposterous and utterly fascinating’, said the Guardian. Also stars Jamie Bell who has obviously come some way from Billy Elliot!
The following week, 8th Jan, we get a chance to see ‘Philomena’ (more…)
Posted in Event, tagged Aix, France, Marseille, Vieux Port on December 21, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Groupe F, who lit up the Athens Olympics, the 1998 World Cup closing ceremony and the opening of the Millenium celebrations at the Eiffel Tower, will be marking the end of MP2013 with a massive (more…)
Posted in Patrimoine, tagged France, Marseille, Me Musee d'Histoire de Marseille, Old Port of Marseille, Vieux Port on September 29, 2013| 2 Comments »
It must have been so exciting in 1967 when, excavating the site for the new centre commercial at the Bourse, they started turning up all manner of Greek and Roman remains, including large pieces of boats. (more…)
Posted in Food, Publication, tagged France, Marseille, Paris Match on September 16, 2013| 2 Comments »
I love my weekly Paris Match: it helps me keep up-to-date with France, has some good in-depth articles on international news and excellent photo-journalism. The current issue (see cover image) has, along with an article on why Anglo-Saxon women are falling for ‘le French Lover’ (looking at you Madonna, Scarlett, Nathalie and Halle Berry…) a thoughtful piece on Marseille.
What, they ask, is going on in Marseille? (more…)
Posted in Travel, tagged France, Spain, speeding on September 9, 2013| Leave a Comment »
…the message is DON’T!
Since last month, August 2013, French-registered cars which are flashed in Spain will be sent an unwelcome letter (more…)
Posted in Art, Patrimoine, Publication, tagged Aix-en-Provence, France, Paul Cézanne, Provence on May 18, 2013| Leave a Comment »
Today’s Guardian has a two-page feature on Aix: the journalist visits on the new direct train to Aix to try out part of the GR2013….and spends the night in the refuge at the top of the Sainte-Victoire. Read on: http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/may/17/aix-en-provence-france-direct-train-paul-cezanne
There is also a lovely video overview of Cézanne’s studio: http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/interactive/2013/may/17/paul-cezanne-studio-aix-en-provence-france-audio-slideshow (Thanks to Mike and to Carol for forwarding this).
And finally an interesting new book by British writer Peter Gumbel who lectures at Sciences Po. ‘France’s Got Talent: the Woeful Consequences of French Elitism’ analyses the stranglehold exercised at the top by the 500 graduates of the top schools. He argues that French meritocracy is a myth and that Hollande has made things even worse – his ‘old boys’ network’ as a bad as Giscard d’Estaing’s. Not only are these individuals drawn overwhelmingly from the same upper class background, but they aren’t providing good leadership anyway. Lots of detail and stats here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/may/14/france-power-elitism-peter-gumbel?INTCMP=SRCH or http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/liberte-inegalite-fraternite-is-french-elitism-holding-the-country-back-8621650.html
(Just in case you are thinking two words – ‘Cameron’ and ‘Eton’ – as I was, apparently this is worse…..)
Posted in Art, Patrimoine, tagged Art, Camargue, France, French Riviera, Marseille, Notre Dame de la Garde, Painting, Provence, Regards-de-Provence on March 19, 2013| 4 Comments »
Amid a veritable building site down in the docks, with cranes and construction workers and car-ferries coming and going, the new Musée Regards de Provence has opened and it is wonderful.
It’s housed in the old Station Sanitaire and signage indicates what awaited the immigrants – rooms for déshabillage, desinfection and service DDT. But today the building is full of big open spaces, flooded with light and filled with wonderful local paintings.
The first floor concentrates on paintings of Marseille. So if you have just walked to the museum along the Vieux Port, you will have walked right through the subject of many of the pictures! 
This is how Louis Nattero saw the Quai du Port in the early years of the 19th century. Not only is it a lovely painting in its own right, but it gives us a view of the old buildings that were detonated in WW2.
Another painter I’d never heard of, Joseph Marius Hurard, worked from the opposite side. He was in the narrow streets of the Panier, looking across to the church up on the hill.
What a wonderful composition this is.
‘Notre Dame de la Garde et Les Escaliers de la Rue Bompard’ focuses on the church in the centre of the painting, but it is framed by the real subject of the work – the busy street life of the Panier. The windows are adorned with washing and the women in the street chat as they come back from the market or the fish-quay.
The second floor of the gallery widens its focus to include paintings from all over Provence, and there are so many treats in store. There are works by Marchand, Chabaud, Seyssaud and Ambrogiani who is represented by a long and colourful painting which illustrates Provence from the Camargue to the Cote d’Azur. One of my favourites.
Modern paintings are grouped in the Salle d’Estaque and, as with most contemporary art, it’s a mixed bag. But this work ‘Plan d’Eau’ 2004 from Patrick Moquet, another artist new to me, was outstanding.
Right at the top of the building is a very elegant restaurant with fabulous views across the docks and out to sea.
I went up for a coffee (11:30) but the whole place was set out for lunch. They were OK about it and moved place settings etc so I could just have a coffee. They have a good lunch menu with plats du jour but also light options. If you opt for the beef, there are signs to reassure you that the animal was ‘né en France et abbattu en France’.
It’s a fabulous spot to sit and eat – especially if you like watching cranes and boats!
The whole museum has been finished to the highest standard and is a pleasure to visit.
It costs 6€ (5€ for seniors) and is open daily. :http://www.museeregardsdeprovence.com/
The South of France. Enchanted by the deep blue of the Mediterranean, the olive trees, poppies, irises and that dazzling light, artists found their creativity flourished under the hot sun. My new book takes you on a journey visiting museums and galleries as well as artists’ studios and their favourite painting spots. From Van Gogh in Arles, to Signac in Saint-Tropez; from Cézanne in Aix, over to Nice for Renoir and Matisse, the story unfolds of artists who knew each other and painted together in the warm south. Prepare too to meet colourful local artists who captured their beloved Provence for us to enjoy.
Buy: in Book-in-Bar, Aix, or online. Please click here: /art-in-the-south-of-france-the-inside-story/paperback/product-23586102.html
aixcentric 