‘Picasso, Ceramics and the Mediterranean’ exhibition is related to the expos at the Palais Longchamp and the Musee Granet, as well as the Dufy expo in Martigues. In the 1950s, Picasso explored Mediterranean civilisations using all kinds of media, including paintings, engravings, lithographs and ceramics. This exhibition features around 150 pieces that have never been shown together, and some that have never been shown at all.
I am never quite sure with Picasso – typical Libra/Balance, I can hold opposing views simultaneously in some sort of inner debating society. Some of the plates and platters were almost child-like, with daubs around the circumference and crude figures in the middle. Why was Picasso decorating them like this? Was he thumbing his nose at the art market? But then other pieces are quite beautiful, especially the colourful glazed plates where he had added pottery fishes or lemons. The exhibition includes some ancient pieces to show where he got some of his decorative ideas – rows of dots for instance; and he does have some dynamic jugs, vases and pitchers. He seems to have taken great pleasure in painting on all sorts of surfaces like tiles and bits of clay pipe. 
Stimulating.
Ambiance: the exhibition is being held in the gallery created in the beautiful Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs. It’s great that so many of these abandoned churches are being given new life by becoming galleries. Here, the staging and lighting is lovely and really enhances the exhibits.
Parking: a nightmare when we visited. Finally found a car-park past the chapel, up by the cemetry.
Open every day from 9am to 8pm. Until 13th October. 8€
ALSO IN AUBAGNE
Centre Pompidou Mobile
This is the world’s first ‘musée nomade’ which is a little like a circus tent. It’s pitched up by the river Huveaune in Aubagne where it is exhibiting modern art from Paris. ‘Cercles et Carrés’ is the theme and you can see twenty works by various artists including Kandinsky. It’s not just paintings. There’s an item by Carl André who inflamed the British tabloids when he showed a pile of bricks at the Tate. In Aubagne we have a large square of floor tiles, rather like one would see in Castorama. We are invited to walk on them and ‘be united with the sculpture’. Quite liked the ‘exploded cabin’ by Daniel Buren
(below).
Ambiance: Very friendly and geared towards children enjoying the exhibits. It’s free as are the audio-guides. Opp a nice bakery/café for snacks.
Parking: Right next to a multi-storey.
Open daily exc. Mondays. Timings vary with school holidays. check on www.mp2013.fr. Until 29 September.
aixcentric 