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  • Le Tour du Pain
    and
    A day in the life of the Chef Boulanger at Au Pavé du Roy
    Susan Gish writes: Sam and I went on a magical tour of Au Pavé du Roy: Artisan Patissier Chocolatier Boulanger Glacier Traiteur.
    Our rendez-vous was with Mme Laurence Campanella, who is the 3rd generation owner of the shop. She invited us to come on a morning in
    October, and we were very happy to accept her kind invitation.
    Entering the atelier, my first impression was how clean the bakery was.

    Everyone was wearing masks and working very cleanly.

    There are three Chefs: One for the Viennoisserie, one for the Patisserie
    and one for the Boulangerie. There are also bakers and apprentices.
    Le Tour du Pain in 3 stages:
    Stage 1: Viennoisserie
    Stage 2: Patisserie
    Stage 3: Boulangerie
    Stage 1: Viennoisserie: Our timing was perfect! There was a peloton
    of bakers in a row making pain au chocolat. One was cutting the puff
    pastry, another was filling with Valrhona chocolate strips, and another
    was folding the pastry.
    Three bakers all working together, riding the flat and then the hills
    together as a team, one pulling off to get to the oven.
    Theyd just finished forming the croissants and putting them into the
    oven as well. A tray of warm croissants came out and were drafting
    by us to deliver to the bakery and oh the smell was amazing!
    All are made with pure butter, pur beurre.
    Madame Campanella explained that Au Pavé du Roy is one of only two places in
    Aix-en-Provence that makes their own croissants.
    The Viennoisserie is also where the pain au raisin (escargot) and other
    breakfast pastries, are made. My favorite is their croissant made with
    pistachio creme and topped with slivered almonds. Or maybe the
    Nutella croissant! American style chocolate chip cookies, some with
    pecans, some with almonds!
    Stage 2: Patisserie: The next station was the patisserie. Here is
    where the magnificent cakes are made, the mille-feuille (pronounce
    that, beginner french students!), eclairs, fruit tartsAu Pavé du Roy
    makes their own ice cream and sorbet, and has decadent ice cream
    cakes! Cant wait to try one. In the freezer case was an ice cream
    cake with hazelnuts and a chocolate Hérissonne / Hérisson on top,
    guess what that is! (Answer: Hedgehog). They are an amazing
    chocolatier also. Chocolate cats, chocolate people, chocolate
    sculpture for every holidayOh, my gosh, navettes Marseillaises!
    We got one to try that day, yum!
    One of the bakers was making a pastry cream créme patisserie.
    But this area is busier later in the day. The morning is meant for
    breakfast pastries, breads and lunches.
    Stage 3: Boulangerie: The bread ovens and bread stations are in
    the far back of the Atelier. Which leads us to:
    A day in the life of the Chef Boulanger at Au Pavé du Roy.
    Chef Jean-Marc Cicala.
    3:00 am:
    Chef Cicala wakes up to go to work.
    3:30-4:00 am:
    He arrives at the atelier and lights the oven first.
    4:00-5:00 am:
    His team arrives. There is one baker and two apprentices.
    The baker and adult apprentice arrive at 4 am.
    The underage apprentice comes at 5 am.
    6:00 am:
    Everyone in the bakery has a coffee and one of their own
    croissants or pain au chocolat. (except lately with the lock down,
    it isnt possible to get the coffee from the Café next door)
    4:00 am – Noon:
    Following is the order and explanation of what the bakers do.
    Different breads require different amounts of kneading and rising.
    Pétrissage: Kneading the dough
    Pointage: Waiting for the dough to rise
    Façonnage: Shaping of the dough
    Stockage en chambre de pousse pour le lendemain:
    Cold Storage of the dough to retard the rise
    Cuisson: Cooking the bread
    Petrissage The first part of the process. The kneading machine
    is started. This is not your typical dough hook in a KitchenAid
    or a bread machine. Its quite a large machine and duplicates the
    motion of kneading by hand.
    Premiere PetrieThe kneading of the wheat flour baguette.
    PointageThe dough is put into the Chambre de Pousse
    (proofing oven) overnight for 10/12 hours. There it ferments;
    rises slowly, and after they are ready for the:
    Faconnage-The shaping or forming of the bread.
    There is a Deuxième Petrie
    A second kneading for their specialty sourdough baguette called,
    La Parisse. Its made from very high-quality flour whose recipe
    was developed by Gaëtan, Paris Meilleur Ouvrier de France 1997.
    Other Petries/kneading are for:
    Whole wheat bread
    Ciabatta (olive oil and wheat)
    Organic bread
    Einkorn petit épeautre – anciennes grains
    Seigle Rye
    Cereal breads multi-grain
    Sandwich bread
    Buns & Bagels
    Rustic breads
    While the kneading is taking place, the bakers cook the breads
    and alternate the work.
    They go back and forth between the above processes, depending
    on the type of bread that they are making.
    The apprentices bring the breads into the shop bakery all
    throughout the day, as they are made.
    On a typical day they make:
    150200 baguettes
    100120 banettes
    80-100 la parisse
    40-60 different specialty breads
    The same breads are made each day.
    Ingredients: Bread is only flour, water, salt & yeast.
    Nuts, honey, olive oil, dry fruits or vegetables, seeds are
    sometimes added.
    They use 1015 different local flours.
    (The bakery as a whole, uses as many local ingredients as
    possible. The flour, eggs, and fruit (when seasonal) are local.
    12:001:00
    JeanMarcs work day ends. He goes home to eat his lunch with
    his family.
    I asked Chef Cicala a few questions about himself:
    Where have you worked?
    I have been at Pavé du Roy for 14 years, since 2006.
    I also worked in two different bakeries in Aix that are closed now,
    and 3 years in French Polynesia.
    When do you see your family?
    I see them in the afternoon, evening and every other weekend.
    Was anyone in your family a baker or a cook?
    If you have children, do they have interest in baking/cooking?
    No-one in my family was a baker or cook. I have one boy who is
    not really interested in baking.
    Do you enjoy being a Chef?
    I chose my job; I love making good bread!
    Finally, are you a sports fan?
    Im not fan of foot, my hobby is Judo; Im Judoka, a black belt.
    Thank you for reading, Le Tour de Pain. I hope it was pain-less.
    It was the yeast I could do to tell this story.
    Perhaps we can break bread together sometime soon!
    Au Pavé du Roy
    Artisan Patissier Chocolatier Boulanger Glacier Traiteur.
    04 42 26 22 81 9 Cours dOrbitelle just next to Hotel Roi René
    Open Tues-Sun 7:00am-8:00pm – aupaveduroy on Instagram.
    Photos by Sam Gish.

 

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It will be Thanksgiving with a difference this year for Americans in Aix, but help is at hand courtesy of Rick Harrison, owner of Biocoop – La Coumpagnié – there are 3 stores in Aix-en-Provence : La Pioline, Célony/Puyricard and La Torse (centre ville adjacent).
He explains: ‘Each year, we offer Thanksgiving dinner in our restaurant which is attended by approximately 100 people. Of course, this year our restaurant is closed but last week I had several inquiries about Thanksgiving meals “to go”. So, we decided yesterday to offer a full Thanksgiving meal for 25 € per person (Thursday, Friday and Saturday) – turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, candied sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, of course gravy, cranberry sauce as well as pumpkin and pecan pie and cheesecake.
In addition, each of the 3 service delis will have each item on Thursday, Friday and Saturday for people who wish to buy last minute and à la carte. The à la carte items can also be pre-ordered.
‘Pre-orders need to be made 24 hours in advance. All of the recipes are my family recipes – so it’s very authentic, and our chef’s cream of mushroom used in the green bean casserole is the best I’ve ever tasted’.
Here’s Rick’s e-mail for people who wish to contact him : rick@biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr, and locations are on their website www.biocoop-lacoumpagnie.fr.  As it’s so last minute, the items cannot be ordered on line.

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pumpkinsLots of golden leaves on the ground and autumnal chills make warming dishes very welcome: this recipe makes the most of the colourful pumpkins that are brightening market stalls in Aix.  When I posted this 4 years ago, I used a shiny red potiron but any sort of squash would work. I  just rediscovered the post and remembered how much we liked this first time round.

Serve in deep bowls with crème fraiche and lots of mango chutney.  Serves 4

  1.  Fry a chopped onion in a splash of sunflower oil for 5 mins.
  2. Add 500g peeled and chopped pumpkin, 800g peeled and cubed potatoes, and 1 chopped cooking apple.
  3. Stir in 2 tsp of curry paste, 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp ginger + 2 bay leaves.
  4. Add 500ml boiling water with a crumbled stock cube, a handful of raisins and seasoning.
  5. Cover and simmer until the vegetables are tender.  About 20 minutes.  Keep tasting the adjust seasoning and curry strength.

Serve with rice or chunks of bread, crème fraiche and mango chutney.

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Mighty Mushroom Traybake

I love the heaps of different types of mushrooms on the Aix markets; here’s a very easy recipe to make the most of them.  Traybakes are a super-easy way to cook a family meal or casual lunch for friends (when we can do that again….)  I like the fact that it can all be prepared in advance and popped into the oven where the various ingredients mingle together into a delicious tasty dish.

This is a Jamie Oliver recipe which is for 4.  More like 6 I would have thought esp at lunchtime. I didn’t have any cannellini beans in the kitchen so used mixed beans in tomato sauce which turned out well.  The great thing about traybakes is that you can incorporate varied ingredients………..warms the kitchen too.

 

  • 800g potatoes

  • 4 garlic cloves

  • 2 red onions

  • ½ a bunch of fresh rosemary (15g)

  • 1 fresh red chilli (optional)

  • olive oil

  • 500g mixed mushrooms

  • 2 x 400g tins cannellini beans

  • red wine vinegar

  • 4 heaped tbsp soured cream

  1. Preheat the oven to gas 6, 200 ̊C, fan 180¡C. Scrub the potatoes, peel the garlic and onions, then slice everything 0.5cm thick, chucking it in a large, shallow roasting tray (30 x 40cm) as you go. Strip in most of the rosemary leaves, then finely slice and add most of the chilli, if using. Add a pinch of sea salt and black pepper and 1 tbsp oil, toss well, arrange in a fairly even layer and roast for 40 mins. Halfway through cooking, roughly tear and toss in the mushrooms, leaving any smaller ones whole.

  2. Pull the tray out of the oven, drain the beans and stir them in, along with 1 tbsp vinegar. Sprinkle over the remaining rosemary leaves and chilli, then return to the oven for a further 20 mins, or until everything is golden and delicious.

  3. Divide the traybake between plates, with a dollop of soured cream on top. Lovely served with some steamed greens or dressed baby spinach.

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‘Catastrophe’ is the word used by the traders’ association president to describe the ‘Les Docks’ office, shopping and dining development opposite Les Terrasses du Port.  Housed in beautifully renovated warehouses, the ground-floor thoroughfare was designed to take 80 shops and restaurants.  It opened in October 2015 and my view when I visited was basically that there were several new developments happening across Marseille, especially around the docks, and there’s a limit to what would be commercially viable.  And that was before Covid!  Click here for background: https://aixcentric.com/2016/10/11/marseille-latest-docksshopping-news/ (more…)

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Susan Gish writes: This article is a bit about us and wine, and a bit about three women who manage or own wine shops in Aix.  (We’ve also included some other wine shops in Aix).

 Our Wine Wall: Sam and I moved into our Center City Philadelphia 1853 townhouse in the late 90’s. The amount of renovation it needed was overwhelming A week later, as we were having a glass of wine in the backyard at sunset, looking at a large blank concrete wall, I looked at Sam and said, ‘Wouldn’t it be great if we could commission the artist Isaiah Zagar* to create a wine wall for us’. Isaiah came over, I explained about our trips to France, love of wine and asked him to create a Wine Wall…he looked at the blank wall with the excitement of a child. Sam asked for the phrase, ‘Gout de Terroir’ and the agriculture of wine to be included in the art installation.
Isaiah left and came back a few days later. He’d done some research and was inspired by the idea of mythology and wine. He wanted to create a Bacchus, the God of Wine, agriculture and ecstasy, as well as Pan with his foot stomping on grapes. They would be surrounding a female in the center, his own ‘Lady in the Hat’. She would be his Goddess of Wine. Grapes, apples, corn, birds in the field, the sun, flowers, it was a fantastical vision of agriculture and terroir! Mosaics and three dimensional wine urns and bottles…For 20 years, every time I looked at it with the sun shining into the glass from different angles, I always saw something new. Isaiah is a good soul, known for being a bit eccentric.
The day he completed the wall, Sam came home unexpectedly and walked in to find Isaiah in his birthday suit. 
He was standing on one leg and the other was crossed in front, posing at the wine wall with a bottle of wine in his hand.  His assistant was taking his photograph. ‘Sam’, he cried, ‘it’s, a, uh, uh …it’s all part of the process!!’. 
Sam just turned around and walked out of the house, quite bemused. Needless to say there were numerous apologetic messages on our answering machine for a few days. Later on we found out that this wasn’t the first time that he did this when completing a piece!
 
Our honeymoon was in Champagne in 1987: All of our vacations were to wine regions, mainly in France.
I got to choose where to go one vacation, Sam chose the next.
 
After our honeymoon in Champagne, our next vacation was in Alsace.
Then Burgundy. 
The Rhone. 
The Loire. 
Champagne again. Burgundy again along with Beaujolais.
Madeira.
Napa and Sonoma.
Tuscany.
Cassis. Bandol. Languedoc.
And finally, Bordeaux.
 
We travelled for a week or two at a time, touring each region on the Route des Vin, stopping for dégustations (tastings), and oh, so many tours. Of course after you’ve seen one pressoir, cellar with oak barrels, and bottling line, you’ve seen them all. ‘Very interesting! That’s great, the cépage, the blend of this grape and that grape you use and, Now. Can. We. Taste. The. Wine? Please!?
 
Gout de Terroir – taste of the soil, taste of the earth: We visited each wine region to learn about ‘terroir’, the earth, the agriculture of the land. We wanted to know where the grapes were grown, to see the soil, feel the climate. This was part of our work. I was a Wine steward, Bartender and Bar Manager (while supporting my acting career). Sam worked as a Sommelier, Maitre’d and Head Waiter (though he never tested for the certificate for Master Sommelier). He also worked for a wine importer. It helped us to actually be in each region, to see each appellation and to understand which grapes were allowed to be used.
 
Plus we had a really good time at numerous Fete des VendangesThere’s a great story when we were in Alsace, in Mulhouse, and stumbled upon the Fete – the crowning of the Queen of the Vendanges (who was the Mayor’s daughter, of course), the parade, the really smarmy DJ on the little stage that all the young women were vying for the attention of…and the new wine and flammekueche that we drank and ate and drank and ate again. 
Never have I had such a bad hangover since. Never. Beware of new wine. By the pichet. In that beautiful blue ceramic vase. Oh, my gosh, I got off track, so many stories to be told!
 
Maintenant: My palate is better than his; his memory is better than mine. I do think women are better at tasting.
I read that women are better than men when it comes to smell and taste. One article said that women have almost 50% more olfactory cells in their brains than men.
 
I was good at tasting a long time ago and still am, but you have to keep up with wine. Maintenant (now), I am just a consumer and perhaps an anti-snob, especially with roséAt one time I knew a lot about wine and only drank the best. 
The past few years I have discovered there is really good boxed rosé wine that one can get in Provence. I would have never, ever, drunk boxed wine in the US! Here we even put ice cubes in the rosé we drink in the summer but not all of them. There are some rosé’s that are definitely not ‘une piscine pour les glacons’.
With white wine, red, and champagne, I’m a bit more discerning. How I love a good white Burgundy or a white Rhone. Or a viognier from Chateau Grillet, one of the smallest appellations in France..Come to think of it, I’d say my favorite reds are also from Burgundy and the Rhone.  Lately, Sam and I are learning about (and loving), the white wines of Provence, Luberon, Var & the Gard
St Victoire, Cassis, Bandol, Bonnieux, Uzes…
So good and they range from fruity to mineralistic. So much wine to try, so little time.
 
But wait!
Instead of talking more about the wine, the regions, the terroir, more fun stories, or the hundredsthousandsmillions of specific wineries we love – all of which would be a book – and so finally, to the point of this article:
 
Cavistes à Aix-en-Provence (Wine shops in Aix)

The 3 Women of Wine Shops in Aix 
Vive les femmes du vin! 
A younger generation of women, c’est génial! 
 
— La Route des Vins -La Pioline:
Stéphanie the manager rocks! Here’s a favorite wine quote of hers:
“I only drink Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.” Lily Bollinger
 
Stéphanie is full of enthusiasm and knows so much about wine. She worked in wine in the US and speaks English very well. We turned the AAGP (Anglo American Group of Provence) onto her, and she hosted a wine tasting in English at the shop for us in 2019. It was a proper tasting: she is really ‘bubbly’ (haha), but Stephanie also has a serious side. 
She loves to talk with and educate people about wine. The two of us have a good connection; I enjoy shopping there.
 
La Route des Vins has a wide selection of wines and Stéphanie is more than willing to guide you whatever your budget. We’ve been for tastings there from local winemakers. 
 
Hurry, just a short time left in October for the wine fair. 20- 30% off on a great selection. Check it out online : www.laroutedesvins.com
 
La Cave des Ours -near the Cathedral: 
Owned by a young couple: Maria and Romain. Maria likes this wine quote: 
My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink more wine.” Ernest Hemingway 
 
 I’ll let her speak for herself:  “I find it important to let people know they can trust that all of our products are respectful of the environment and the health of both consumer and producer. We work very hard to verify the work done in the vines and during wine making to be sure that we are offering products with no chemicals, additives and other “winemaking” products. We believe wine should be made of grapes grown with love and nothing more. So all of our products are grown without herbicides, pesticides or fungicides, hand harvested, fermented with indigenous yeast, have little to no SO2 or other “winemaking” additives, and are often unfiltered and un-fined…we are lovers of natural wine and craft beer! We are fervent defenders of organic and biodynamic agriculture, respectful of the environment…We defend authentic products of small artisan winemakers and growers as well as independent artisan brewers against the impersonal products dominating our food and beverage industry.” 
 
They have both worked in the hospitality industry. Maria in the US, Australia and New Zealand. Romain is French. He has been very passionate about wine from an early age, drinking with his family on holidays from his grandfather’s cellar. He enjoys blind tasting with his friends and is level 3 WSET certified (an international wine certification).
 
Their wine shop & wine bar serves wines by the glass or bottle. A different selection changes weekly. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights you can get charcuterie, fromage and vegetable/vegan platters. Bread is from Farinoman Fou the best I think in Aix! They also do a pop-up brunch du marché every month, sometimes with a vegan chef. 
 
Brunch update! – This Saturday, 17 October there will be one of the brunch du marché with PopUp Culinaire- Vegan/Végétal cuisine par Ariane Roques – 11-14h – reservations recommended.
 
I often go to Cave des Ours during the day for a café: they serve Mana coffee! www.lacavedesours.fr 
Mademoiselle Wine – off of Place Richelme:
 Another woman that knows a lot about wine is Aurélia Gauthier. She has a great selection of fine wine, as well as around 100 different champagne vignerons in stock. This is my go-to place for good champagne in Aix. I always buy Pierre Peters champagne from her as it’s one of my favorite champagnes ever. Aurélia likes to share the emotion of wine, offering wines for tasting during the day. I’ve been a few times when there are winemakers in for tastings. 
She’s obviously a lover of good food as well from the pictures on her Instagram: 
Mademoisellewineaixenprovence – ‘Cave à Vins et Champagnes de terroir / Peaceful place for wine & champagne lovers’. A new shop is under construction which is only a few doors down on the same street. Opening in November.
More wine shops we have been to (perhaps some have women owner/managers):
—La Cave du Cours Mirabeau- Have been to a gin tasting there. The shop is downstairs in a cool old building.
—La Cave Mazarin – Great selection on Rue d’Italie.
—Simplement Vin – I like that they have their wines arranged by price: 8euros, 8-15euros, 15-30euros, 30+ and Les Bulles. Aix (not centre ville) and Eguilles.
—Cave du Félibrige – convenient on rue Cordelier
—Cave Conseil Aix- on the Peripherique – close to us.
—Oenodepot -in Les Milles by the party shop – a wide selection of wines and spirits.
—Nicholas – There are three in Aix: Rue d’Italie, Les Allées Provencales and the Mairie. 
—La Cave de Virgile – Le Tholonet near the new Lidl. 
 
Of course, there are many more places in Aix to buy wine: gourmet shops, little  corner shops…You can also buy at the supermarché. Wait! Why not go to the wineries themselves? Taste and buy: well, that’s another article to write!
Just for fun, quelques citations de vin et champagne from women:
 
“I can no more think of my own life without thinking of wine and wines and where they grew for me and why I drank them when I did and why I picked the grapes and where I opened the bottles, and all that, than I can remember living before I breathed.” 
 
“There is a communion of more than our bodies when bread is broken and wine drunk.” 
-both above from M.F.K. Fisher
 
“I enjoy cooking with wine, sometimes I even put it in the food.”
 
“Wine is meant to be with food—that’s the point of it.”
 
 “As you get older, you shouldn’t waste time drinking bad wine.” 
 
“An old wine is like an old lady, and travelling can disturb her.”
 
“Wine is a living liquid containing no preservatives. Its life cycle comprises youth, maturity, old age and death. When not treated with reasonable respect, it will sicken and die.”
 
“The best way to execute French cooking is to get good and loaded, and whack the hell out of a chicken. Bon appétit.”
-all above from Julia Child
 
“Pass the Bolly, sweetie darling!” 
Absolutely Fabulous
 
“Whenever I drink champagne I either laugh or cry…I get so emotional! I love champagne.” 
Tina Turner
 
“Three be the things I shall never attain: Envy, Content and sufficient Champagne.” 
Dorothy Parker
 
“Never, never trust anyone who asks for white wine. It means they’re phonies.” 
Bette Davis
…and a few favorites from men too!
 
“Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast? Doesn’t everyone?” 
Noel Coward
 
“Who knows how to taste wine never drinks wine again, but tastes secrets instead.” 
Salvador Dali
 
“Burgundy makes you think of silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk of them, and Champagne makes you do them.” 
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
 
Addresses – all are on Facebook 
Please check hours/days due to COVID closings.
 
-La Route des Vins-La Pioline – in the strip of shops before Carrefour
 04 42 20 46 44 – 540 Avenue Guillaume du Vair, 13290
-Mademoiselle Wine – Aix centre just off Place Richelme
09 51 25 17 20 – 10 rue des Marseillais (moving to 14 rue des Marseillais in November) 
-La Cave des Ours – Aix centre just up from the Cathedral
 09 54 48 76 34  – 20 rue Jacques de la Roque
 
La Cave du Cours Mirabeau -19 Cours Mirabeau
La Cave Mazarin -18 rue d’Italie
Simplement Vin – 31 avenue Robert Schuman in Aix or 7 rue Agathe, Eguilles
Cave du Félibrige – 8 Rue des Cordeliers
Cave Conseil Aix – 3 rue de la Molle
Oenodepot – 30 Rue Frédéric Joliot, 13290
Nicolas – 3 shops in Aix – rue d’Italie, Sextius, Mairie
La Cave de Virgil – 1652 Avenue Paul Jullien, Le Tholonet
 
Artist Links:
 
 
*Dave Blazek cartoonist – www.loosepartscomic.com 
 
Susan Gish – with some help from ‘Chef’ Sam

 

 

 

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Can re-open….

(more…)

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Here’s an offer from the departmental tourist organisation, My Provence:

called Pass Tables, it gives 6000 lucky people 50 euros to spend in a selection of restaurants in Bouches-du-Rhone – once they re-open obvs!

They have been selected for their cuisine ‘Provence authentique et savoureuse… une cuisine faite maison’ with local products which are fresh and seasonal.

(more…)

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Why not try one of the cafes by the canals in Martigues?

Now we know that it’s just Aix and Marseille eateries that must close for at least 7 days from tonight, where should we be heading for a meal?  Here’s the list of communities in the Metropole that are exempted and can serve meals until 22:00hrs. (more…)

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It’s 9 months since the November morning when fire ripped through Aix’s most famous cafe, Les Deux Garcons.  At last I have some news to report… (more…)

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