September in Provence, and the grapes are being harvested, processed and transformed into delicious wines famous around the world.

There are lots of opportunities to visit local vineyards or village co-operatives but here is a ‘parcours’ for Puyloubier, a village a short drive east from Aix. Situated on the lower slopes of the Sainte-Victoire, its vineyards are covered by the appellation ‘Cote de Provence – Sainte Victoire’ which was launched some 20 years ago.

C Dutrey, Provence Tourisme

Try a hike:  there’s a 2 hour walk around vineyards whose working practices are ancestral, all the time enjoying superb views of the mountain which Cézanne painted so often. https://www.myprovence.fr/ca-s-agite-dans-le-local/au-grand-air/micro-voyage/bouches-du-rhone/balade-entre-les-cepages-le-sentier-des-vignerons?utm_source=My+Provence&utm_campaign=34f31ca6e4-news-nature-20-septembre-2022&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_c72cda0555-34f31ca6e4-192003497&ct=t(news-nature-20-septembre-2022)

Enjoy a meal at Restaurant la Place: shaded by ancient trees, this bistro offers traditional cuisine with a Mediterranean twist.  Dishes are based on fresh produce, including fish, seasonal veg, panisses and desserts gourmands.

It’s a charming place (literally) to eat in the heart of the village and I have happy memories of eating there, especially as it is vegetarian-friendly.  At the moment, they are offering a ‘dernieres saveurs d’eté’ menu with delicious options.  Find out more: https://www.la-place-puyloubier.com/

or at Nico AndCo. Further out of the village, up a twisty road, there’s a restaurant that is perched on the side of the Sainte-Victoire. It’s called Nico AndCo (sic), and is part of the Maison de Sainte-Victoire.  This organisation is the focus of local activities and often has interesting expos on the geology and history of the area.  Thanks to Marilyn for these recommendations.  More here: https://www.instagram.com/restaurant_msv/?hl=en

Become a wine connaisseur:  visit la coopérative vinicole des Vignerons du Mont Sainte-Victoire established back in 1924 by local producers wishing to pool production. Their wines became well known for their quality as they always had been: it’s said that King René would only have rosé from Puyloubier on his table. Here you can learn the secrets of wine production and stock up at their boutique afterwards.

Stay at the Relais de Saint Ser : this 19thc farmhouse has been updated to become a stylish hotel, enjoying terrific views.

Take part in the annual wine rally:

A heads-up for this popular event on Saturday 15th October.  It started some 19 years ago to promote the various vineyards in the Sainte-Victoire area which had just been awarded its AOP.  It’s an attractive area which you will explore as you drive from cave to vineyard following clues – you do need a fluent French-speaker in the car.

Everyone ends up at a central cave or co-op where a cocktail dinatoire will be waiting, together with a bottle of wine for each adult participant.

Details: https://www.vins-sainte-victoire.com/fr/rallye-decouverte-des-vins

Booking essential as it quickly sells out. Apply online.  I may have left this annual reminder a little late this year. If so, apologies, and mark your 2023 calendar…

……………….and enjoy what the autumn in Provence has to offer.

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Over 50 years ago, Queen Elizabeth II came to Provence.  Here’s a look-back on what she saw  during her 25 hours in the region. (more…)

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