aixcentric

Happy Birthday Paul Cezanne…183 today!

An event today in Aix will celebrate this birthday. Painter and writer Jacky Chabert who has published several books on Aix and Cezanne with Editions Desbaumes, will be signing his latest works ‘P.Cezanne aquarelliste’ and ‘Paul Cezanne, le temps d’un Abécédaire’. The great-grandson of the painter, Philippe Cezanne will attend. Today, 15h – 18h, Hotel des Augustins, rue de la Masse, Aix.

If you are new to Aix and seek further acquaintance with the town’s most famous artist, here are some suggestions.

Family home at Jas de Bouffan currently closed

The tourist office has a brochure ‘In the Steps of Cezanne’ which takes you around all the sites with useful info on each.  Downloadable here: https://www.aixenprovencetourism.com/en/brochure/.  They do point out that the large Cezanne family home, Jas de Bouffan, is closed right now.  It was badly in need of renovation inside and is undergoing a redevelopment which will include areas for visitors to see how the family lived, an exhibition space, and rooms for academics/researchers.  All was proceeding well until the pandemic derailed progress.  I don’t have a re-opening date.

Other closed doors are at rue Boulegon, Cezanne’s last domicile, the Madeleine church where the artist was baptised (re-opens in two years…MAJOR travaux, MAJOR saga), and the church in cours Sextius which is rarely open – it’s lovely and peaceful inside, so maybe go in for a service?

So what can you see?  The artist’s studio is a must: semi-abandoned until the 50s, it has been restored so carefully that you feel that Cezanne has just stepped out.  Lots of original items from his still lifes can be seen but they do buy new apples the guide told me! Details of access are on the brochure.  If you aren’t in Aix right now, here’s a 5 minute visit. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hFJBB793a98&pp=QAFIAQ%3D%3D

Stand where Cezanne painted masterpieces

Afterwards, do keep going up the hill to the Terrain des Peintres, a viewing point for the Provencal countryside and the majestic Montagne Sainte-Victoire.  Cezanne painted many oils from here and there are 9 reproductions on panels, showing versions of the mountain now in galleries around the world.

Another place he painted was the Pont des Trois Sautets: it’s an elegant little 17thc bridge over the Arc which also attracted Winston Churchill and easel.  Redevelopment plans are afoot to build a relief-bridge up-stream to take the pressure of 21stc traffic so maybe visit soon? Just  off the N7 at Val Saint-André.

Head for Aix’s Musée Granet to see 10 oil paintings by Cezanne;  despite his vast output, the town failed to buy of his work, nor invest during the sale held by Madame Cezanne after his death. But the museum is slowly building a collection, and has frequent shows of  artists influenced by ‘the master’.

After work each day, Cezanne used to meet up with his Aixois friends at cafés in the cours Mirabeau. The Deux Garcons was a favourite – hopefully it will soon be able to open again, once renovations are completed after the devastating 2019 fire.  Studs in the pavements in centre ville indicate the artist’s usual walks.

Read all about it: ‘Cezanne A Life’ by Alex Danchev is a sprawling biography of the man, his art, his social circle and his life in Aix and Paris.  Very conversational, it reads like a novel. Profile Books.

And finally…’Cezanne et Moi‘ the 2016 film has Guillaume Gallienne as Cezanne and Guillaume Canet as his school-friend Emil Zola. One critic called it a ‘high class soap opera’ but praise was heaped on the cinematography. ‘Somehow you can smell the bright pools of paint on Cezanne’s palette; savour the fresh ripe tomatoes, slices of sausage and just-peeled garlic that sit nearby; feel the warmth of the sun; and sniff the freshness of the air’. Taster here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNYVwvUvAj0  See on DVD or for a few euros via You Tube.