aixcentric

…or not as the case might be.  I understand that the annual Blessing of the Calissons, due to take place this Sunday (6th) at Aix’s Saint Jean de Malte won’t be happening and neither will the Sainte-Victoire Wine Rally which takes place each October but always had to be booked early September such was its popularity. Watch out too for a National Strike this month. The powerful CGT union have called for a greve national on Thursday 17th September.  ‘Never book travel on a Thursday,’ a French friend once advised me.  Those of you in France may like to keep an eye on https://www.cestlagreve.fr/, a dedicated strikes website, now with downloadable app.

But thankfully much is still going ahead including the Septembre en Mer festival which is happening along the coast.  There are boat-rides, diving lessons, coastal hikes, workshops and films, lessons on surf-boarding and paddles, and if you are feeling ecologically-minded, there is a beach-clean party this Sunday (6th).

1720 was the year the Great Plague arrived in Marseille and this strangely coincidental anniversary will be marked by special boat-trips by barquette, from the Vieux Port out to the l’île du Frioul. This was the ‘port de quarantaine’ where the plague-ridden boat, the Grand St Antoine was held. The whole story and an  introduction to life in Marseille in 1720 will be covered by a volunteer guide on board.  Reservations necessary.  Details: https://officedelamer.com/fr/septembre-en-mer/

While on the subject of boat-trips, September is the last month for the Navettes Maritimes services from the Vieux Port, up to L’Estaque or down to Pointe Rouge.  This is one of my favourite treats! Both half-hour trips provide super views of the port, coast and city, and each destination has lots of restaurants for lunch before heading back to town. Last opportunity til April for this great dose of sea air…

Social distancing should be easily achieved inside the cavernous ‘Carrieres de Lumiere‘ at Les Baux de Provence.  These former quarries are the venue for immersive art performances which marry brilliantly-coloured images with carefully-chosen music. Each year has a new theme but during September there are special evenings when you can catch up on shows from past years.

‘Picasso and Spanish Masters’ +’ Michaelangelo, Leonardo, Raphael, Giants of the Renaissance’: Fridays 11, 18, 15th

‘Van Gogh, Starry Nights’ + ‘Chagall, Midsummer Night’s Dreams’: Saturdays 12, 19, 26th

The show starts at 7.15 and runs for two hours including interval. Café open. Admission: 25€ or 38€ with a meal. Like most things now, these shows must be booked in advance: https://www.carrieres-lumieres.com/en/all-carrieres-shows.  I’ve seen most of the shows here and would single out the Van Gogh as a truly memorable experience, especially given the location in the heart of Provence.

                                                            Next post: the programme for Aix’s Journees du Patrimoine >>>