aixcentric

Just imagine this being the view from your lunch table.  That’s the pleasure of being in Les Goudes, a enjoyable boat-ride from Marseille’s Vieux Port.

A 8-euro one-way ticket takes you out through the port, past Fort Saint Jean and MuCEM, out to the open sea where the engine of the navette maritime revs up and the ride becomes thrilling.  On Friday, we were lucky to sail through the ‘Les Voiles’ regatta, but other times we have passed through the wake of the Algerian car ferry, resulting in a few bumps on the waves.

Excellent view of the islands and the elegant white sails of the ‘Les Voiles’ regatta

All must alight at Pointe Rouge.  Most depart for the  beach but Les Goudes passengers cross to a smaller boat for the 10 minute journey to what locals often call ‘le bout du monde’.  The landscape becomes much rockier with little habitation until the small port comes into sight.  It’s been a home to fishermen and local quarry-workers from late 19th century and many of the simple cabanons still exist.  Built from whatever was at hand, plus concrete, we’re not talking pretty Dorset beach-huts or white-washed Greek fishing communities.  This is an authentic Marseillais milieu.  Over the years, terraces and upper storeys have been added, but very little gentrification…yet.

So to lunch.  There’s a handful of restaurants and cafés backing on to the port. We chose Le Grand Bar des Goudes, run by the local Tani family.  It was very friendly and our server Elodie made sure we had water and cucumber mousses while we contemplated the menu.  My choice was easy – the vegetarian option – but my fish-loving friends were spoiled for choice amongst the dishes made from the day’s catch.  Big recommendation from them.  The café gourmand delighted  us all – what a plate.  Now I see why Tripadvisor list it as #21 out of 2262 Marseille restaurants.  Click here for their website and a good video-clip: https://www.grandbardesgoudes.fr/

So a walk before the boat back was in order.  Interesting to explore the tiny back streets and get some feel for Les Goudes.  I read that these same streets can be almost blocked solid by sight-seers in summer, so maybe a visit before the school holidays, if possible, would be best.  There were no shops (that I saw) so bring water, sun-screen etc.  There’s a tiny ‘beach’ area in the port where children were playing, but it really is tiny.  More a destination for appreciating a very local community and treating yourself to a lazy summer lunch.