aixcentric

The British press has been fulsome in its praise of the Musée de la Romanité in Nimes which opened in June – I couldn’t wait to visit.

Brand-new museums worldwide are making use of the latest building techniques and materials to construct breath-taking spaces to show beautifully-lit exhibits.  And this is no exception.  Plus it is in a very special site – right opposite the 20,000 seat Roman Arena which was built 2,000 years ago.

French-Brazilian architect Elizabeth de Portzamparc won the competition to design the new building which Architectural Design magazine has just included in its 30 most spectacular museums of the world.  http://www.elizabethdeportzamparc.com/en/2018/09/the-musee-de-la-romanite-of-nimes-one-of-the-30-most-spectacular-museums-in-the-world-according-to-ad-magazine/

She explained that she saw the building as a ‘citizen of Nimes’ which is clad in a ‘toga’ of 7000 glass tiles undulating like folds of fabric. Try as I might, I couldn’t get this toga concept – it reminded me more of eyes peeping out across the ages to the Arena opposite. See what you think!

The story started with workmen digging out space for a car-park and coming across 2 virtually untouched Roman mosaic floors. That was the cue for the mayor to initiate the building of a 21st century home for these, and all the other archaeological treasures that had been found in Nimes over the years.

Inside the museum, there are 5000 items from the Nimes region, from the Iron Age (Gauls) through the Roman period to the Middle Ages.  Visitors follow a timeline which gives insights into the daily lives of the local people.  This is enhanced by models, films, interactive terminals and augmented reality.

Even if Roman history doesn’t thrill you, the visit will.  You don’t have to pay to take the lift up to the ‘fifth facade’ or rooftop terrace where visitors get a 360 degree panoramic view of Nimes. It’s also the location of the brasserie, La Table du 2, whose chef is Michelin-starred Franck Putelat. http://latabledu2.com/.  It’s free entry too to the Jardin de Vestiges.  There’s a pathway through the building that takes you along the old wall, first built by Augustus, to the newly planted garden.  It has three tiers with herbs, trees and plants that are indigenous, then those introduced by the Romans, and finally those from the Middle Ages….following the tripartite theme of the museum.

I practically had to be dragged away – it was all fascinating – but then so is Nimes with so much else to see.  It’s ages since we visited and it’s an easy one hour-ish drive from Aix.

Getting there: parking in town wasn’t straightforward as the big underground carpark was full due to a nearby event.  But on the way home, found that there is a big park-and-ride interchange just off the A54 autoroute.

Nimes have got their Tram’Bus, as it’s called, and it takes passengers from Caissargues (A54) right into the town centre. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ligne_T1_du_bus_%C3%A0_haut_niveau_de_service_de_N%C3%AEmes.  Next time….