aixcentric

Now the summer has finally arrived, and before the schools break up, it’s the perfect time for a trip down to one of Marseille’s southerly beaches, Pointe Rouge. It’s sandy and sheltered and the life-guards are already in place. It was developed in the 60s, and the marina now hosts 1,800 boats.

It’s easily reached from the Vieux Port.  The navettes maritimes leave on the hour and cost just 5€ each way. It’s a thrilling journey through the harbour, out past Fort Saint-Jean, Mucem and the big car ferries and then down the coast. Takes 35-40 mins.

When I visited two year ago, we had lunch at O’Pedalo which was a well-known ‘pieds dans l’eau’ eaterie; but it  has been threatened with closure for some time now, under the Loi Litteral. This legislation was introduced to stop the development of private beach clubs in France in order to safeguard public access to the beaches. This has affected some establishments at Pointe Rouge like La Bonne Franquette which was closed down.  O’Pedalo didn’t look as though it was open when I visited a week ago but I’m not sure of their current status.  Maybe phone ahead if you want to visit?

But there are several simple restaurants lining the sands – they presumably are within the law in that they can be quickly dismantled at the end of the season.  They serve simple menus, salads and pizzas and various formules.

I have read that the beach at Pointe Rouge is absolutely heaving in the school holidays, so maybe now is a good time to hop on a boat down there for a pleasant lunch on the sand?