This is a highly political show – highly personal too. Much is about the artist’s relationship with his father whose ship from Shanghai back in 1929 docked right next to where MuCEM is today. Indeed it was France that inspired him to become a poet, a dangerous occupation back in China where he was later forced into internal exile for 20 years; which underlies the political theme of his son’s exhibition, that of the refugee.

Colored House 2015
Ai Weiwei has made items specifically for Marseille, in the first large-scale exhibition of his work in France. In the first room, visitors see one-tonne cubes of Marseille soap, one inscribed with the Declaration of the Rights of Man, the other with a Chinese Declaration of the Rights of Women. The centre-piece of the first room however is a recreation of a Chinese house from the Ming Dynasty, strikingly colourful in the cool white geometry of the gallery. But its covering in modern industrial paint is a comment on China’s modern rush to economic progress.
‘A small act is worth a million thoughts,’ Ai Weiwei
This theme carries through into the second room where the centre-piece is an installation of 61 chandeliers mounted on a traditional bottle rack. It evokes the type of lighting in international hotels in Chinese megacities, contrasted to the humble support of the bottle rack. It’s dazzling.
‘Creativity is part of human nature. It can only be untaught’, Ai Weiwei

The destruction of these blue and white dragon bowls symbolises the effects of the Cultural Revolution
Elsewhere in the room, there’s an installation of pots from 5000BC slopped with industrial paint (you may have seen these at the RA in London), plus a 2016 series of portraits of the artist made from lego.
‘A refugee could be anybody. It could be you or me. The refugee is a crisis, a human crisis’, Ai Weiwei.
- Info-boards in French and English
- Exhibition opens tomorrow; but from 16:00 hrs today, it’s ‘portes ouvertes’, free entry, with DJs performing on MuCEM’s wonderful terrace.
- MuCEM closed on Tuesdays except during August when it is open every day….good!
- Entry 9,5 euros for over 18s. Free first Sunday of the month.
‘My conclusion is we are one humanity. If anyone is being hurt, we are all being hurt. If anyone has joy, that’s our joy’, Ai Weiwei.
THE EXHIBITION RUNS UNTIL 12 NOVEMBER 2018
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