This beautiful vineyard at Les Arcs-sur-Argens is a must-visit, not just for its natural beauty and acclaimed wines, but also for the outstanding Chapelle Sainte-Rosaline in the grounds. It not only contains artistic gems (Giacometti and Chagall), but also the 680-year old body of the saint herself, reposing in the nave in a glass case. So who was she?
Rosaline born in 1263 was a child of a local aristocratic family, noted for her piety and practical help for the poor. One
day, her father caught her secreting bread to the needy in her apron, but when challenged, she let go of the apron and out fell roses. She became the prioress of the abbey from 1300 til her death in 1329 after which the abbey became a place of pilgrimage.
The life of Rosaline is the theme of much of the art in the chapel. ‘The Miracle of the Roses’ was illustrated by Diego Giacometti in a subtle bronze relief while Marc Chagall chose another miracle, ‘The Meal of the Angels’ as a theme for his mosaic: the story goes that Roseline, by now a nun, was delegated to provide a meal for the sisters but deep in prayer, she neglected this task. Happily, a group of angels came to her aid and laid out dishes of food on the table. Chagall was commissioned by Marguerite Maeght (Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul-de-Vence), in 1975, to design the mural which was executed under his direction by Italian mosaic-craftsmen.
Mosaic by Marc Chagall
The focal part of the chapel is the overwhelming altarpiece, created at the end of the 15th century, to surround the painting of Christ’s descent from the cross, by Francois Brea in 1514. It is a gorgeous confection of gold-painted wood carved into twisted columns and embellished with saints and angels.
Modern stained glass, 19th century ex votos, and statues all incorporate the theme of roses falling from the apron of the saint. And as for Sainte Rosaline, her body rests peacefully in the glass case, though oddly her eyes are mounted in a nearby relinquaire.
The chapel is part of a collection of religious buildings and is at the heart of the eponymous vineyard; so what better after this artistic experience than to go to the nearby centre to try and buy the wines.
The Chateau Sainte-Roseline is easily accessible by car from Aix – about an hour’s drive down the A8. We found it fascinating.
Details: Free; Chapel open afternoons only, Tues-Sun.
Website: http://www.sainte-rosaline.com
aixcentric 
Leave a Reply