aixcentric

…not only is it a charming little port but the current exhibition on Felix Ziem comes to an end on April  23rd.

He was one of the few 19th century artists to make money.  Once in his favourite travel spots like Constantinople or Venice, he sprang into action and produced multiple, saleable small paintings of these popular destinations.  And his work was accepted by the Louvre in his lifetime, another exception.

He spent his last 50 years based in  Martigues and painted views of the port, the boats at sea and in ‘Etang de Berre’ as well as landscapes along the coast. Ever the Orientalist, he built a mosque with minarets in his Martigues garden but sadly it was demolished in the 70s.

Musée Ziem is also a centre for local paintings, just like this view of the Miroir des Oiseaux by Raoul Dufy, painted in 1903, but still recognisable today.

The town of Martigues is comprised of three ancient settlements – the middle one is an island dissected by a canal between the Etang de Berre and the Med.  It’s an intriguing place to visit and the waterways are lined with little cafés and restaurants.

The Musée Ziem is worth a visit – and it’s free – but only open in the afternoon, Wed-Sun.  As you drive into town, there are big car-parks on the right bordering the water so parking isn’t too difficult.

Here’s Ziem in 1910, still painting at 90!  The museum has full details of his life and work…in English.