aixcentric

There is a major pilgrimage each year in Marseille to celebrate Chandeleur,

The ancient Abbey of Saint-Victor

Candlemas, on 2nd February.  It begins at 5am with the procession of the Black Virgin from the Quai des Belges to the Abbey of Saint Victor. In front of the Abbey, the Archbishop, in the presence of the Mayor, blesses the city, the sea, the Abbey’s green candles, before the Candlemas’ Mass is celebrated. More details: http://marseille.catholique.fr/Fetes-de-la-Chandeleur-2017

Then at 8am, the Archbishop goes to the nearby bakery, the Four des Navettes to bless the oven and the famous navettes.  These are little boat-shaped biscuits with orange-blossom flavouring.  This family bakery is the oldest in Marseille and has been delighting locals with its patisseries since 1781.

They say: ‘Do you know the Four des Navettes’ tradition? Keep a navette which has received the Archbishop’s blessing and a green candle until the next Candlemas to bring happiness to your family. A year later, you burn the candle and eat the navette, because it keeps a whole year’.

The secret of the Navette du Four’s recipe has been jealously guarded for more than 200 years, with the three different families who have owned it handing it on through the generations.

If like me you can’t prise yourself out of bed that early, most of the local bakeries will be selling navettes this week; or you can try your hand in the kitchen – here’s an online demo: https://www.hervecuisine.com/recette/la-recette-des-fameuses-navettes-de-marseille-a-la-fleur-doranger/

Happily, if you are reading this from afar, the Four des Navettes is now firmly in the Internet age so you can order online.

Info on crepes/pancakes to follow…