This place is just gorgeous. It was the home of Pierre Salinger, President Kennedy’s press secretary and spokesman, and his fourth wife Poppy. He chose this 17th century mill on the river Sorgue for retirement in 2000, having sworn that if George W Bush was elected president he would quit the country and live in France!
The couple opened the grounds for public exhibitions of monumental sculptures and since his death in 2004, Poppy Salinger le Cesne and her family continue to welcome visitors to their centre. La Bastide Rose is a boutique hotel and there is a very elegant restaurant ‘Au Gusto’ alongside. But you can just drop in to enjoy the gardens by the river and the sculpture park, for an 8€ entry fee.
At the moment the theme is Totem and there are some very interesting
sculptures to see. ‘The Yelling Man’ by the amazing Niki de Saint-Phalle, typically covered in mirrors and coloured glass mosaics was a delight, sparkling in the sun.
In the wilder area alongside the Sorgue, there were some fascinating sculptures and lots of chairs dotted under the shady trees to enjoy the ambiance. One of the farm buildings has been converted into a museum dedicated to the life and politics of Salinger and the Kennedy brothers. Although Salinger died in France, he lies buried near to them in Arlington Cemetery.
‘Totem’ is on until 15th October, 14:30-18:30, daily except Tuesdays. It is situated very close to the town of Le Thor (not far from Avignon) and is on a turn-off of the D1, opposite the Caserne de Pompiers.
We found the GPS co-ordinates took us up a track through a field of crops up to a bridge marked ‘Danger’! Better to put in the address ’99 Chemin des Croupieres, Le Thor’.
Website: http://www.pierresalinger.org/
It really is worth persevering to find such a special place!
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