aixcentric

…or how the other half lived!  Imagine having so much money that you could travel around Europe buying anything that took your fancy. 

That was the reality for Beatrice de Rothschild, born in 1864 into the famous banking family. Aged 19,  she married into the wealthy Ephrussi clan, increasing her spending power still further.  And to house all her loot, she built herself a pink palace at Cap Ferrat, one of the most beautiful headlands in France.

 It’s difficult to imagine that this was a scrubby wind-swept piece of land – now it has seven beautiful gardens – a Rose Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Spanish Garden and a Jardin Exotique with the most amazingly shaped and coloured species from all over the world.

To the rear of the mansion is a formal garden where the fountains spring to life every 20 minutes with a water-ballet accompanied by lovely classical music. 

Eclectic is the only word to describe the villa’s contents – Beatrice collected medieval panels, Sevres and Meissen china, Fragonard paintings, oriental costumes, tapisteries – but somehow it works.

The villa itself is very elegant with spacious rooms overlooking the sea on each side – and what breath-taking views.  She was a demanding client, hiring and firing architects and designers but she did end up with a spectacular building.

Oddly though she didn’t live there, preferring their house in Monte Carlo where she and Maurice spent much of their time gambling.

The marriage was not happy – an infection from her husband rendered her infertile – and they separated when his gaming debts span out of control. 

Visiting: It’s open daily 10-18:00hrs, details here http://www.villa-ephrussi.com/en/home

Eating:  There is a wonderful tearoom-restaurant overlooking the Bay of Villefranche.  You can either have a light lunch (quiches, salads) or a coffee and patisserie.  It’s very very civilised!

Driving from Aix:  About 2 hours (this was in the week, off-season).  To get there, you probably have to drive through Nice and then through Villefranche.  Can be clogged in the summer but at the moment fine.  A fabulous and memorable day out.