There has certainly been a development boom locally this year. I’m not sure whether these innovations were a result of the Year of Culture or whether they would have happened anyway; but the focus on Marseille-Provence certainly proved a powerful (if sometimes belated) impetus to transforming parts of Marseille or renovating existing museums.
They all have one thing in common – this time last year, none of us had experienced them. How quickly they have become familiar!
Here’s my Top Ten Highlights – and, to follow, some lowlights:
- Vieux Port – a development which has taken Marseille’s natural focus and made it into a public space worthy of France’s second city. Virtually traffic-free and endowed with an intriguing Ombriere.
- Fort St Jean – another great free space for families and tourists to enjoy for picnics and boat-spotting.
- MUCEM – everyone seems to love this stunning building. It has seen 1.5m visitors since it
opened in June. - J1 – suddenly an old boat jetty became a great destination for seeing paintings, local photography, and nearby ferries up close and personal. It attracted 297,000 visitors (just over half of whom paid to visit the expos). It closed a few days ago and La Provence reported that the locals they interviewed were ‘melancoliques’. Me too! There are currently 20 candidates to take over the hangar and the adjoining dock…let’s hope someone will re-open this one!
- Musée Regards de Provence – another unused building magicked into a tremendous airy space for exhibiting local art.
- Pavillon M – a temporary HQ for the Year of Culture but one which seems to have become a really useful centre for information and activities. Loos too! It attracted 1.2m visitors being the most visited centre after MUCEM. Despite a recent poll showing 85% of interviewees wanting it to stay, demolition is due 6thJan-15thFeb. Leave it up, please!
- Musée départemental Arles antique – the extension for the Roman boat is a super addition to this wonderful museum. The Rodin exhibition attracted 138,000 visitors.
- Eden Cinema at La Ciotat. This was a wreck until very recently. The first cinema anywhere in the world, this is an important historical monument and a great asset for the town.
- Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, Aix. This was an asbestos-riddled ruin until funding became available to restore it to house the Collection Planque. It is a lovely space with a gracious ceiling.
- Le Musée d’Histoire de Marseille. A challenge for the architects to squeeze a spacious museum into the base of a shopping centre at the same time integrating with a garden of ancient Greek foundations. It’s full of interesting exhibits and a pleasure to visit.
Low Points:
- Not being ready on time. It should have all opened with a bang in 2013!
- MUCEM is really understaffed. It’s not made clear that you don’t need a ticket to go in and explore the building and I’ve seen long queues for these largely unnecessary tickets at a booth staffed by 2 people. Same with the miniscule ground-floor food kiosk. Never been to the resto because of the queues.
- Villa Mediterranée. Still don’t see the point of spending 73m euros on this; plus it detracts from views of MUCEM and, in the other direction, of the Cathedral. La Provence quoted visitor numbers at 195,000 since its opening in March, compared with 1.5m at MUCEM which opened in June.
Next Post: Top Ten Happenings…
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