aixcentric

Where has the year gone?  I can scarcely believe that the Christmas market period is upon us once more, but here it comes and here is a round-up of activity in Aix.

Christmas Chalets in the Cours Mirabeau: they open on Wednesday 20th November.  The official inauguration of the lights and market by Madame le Maire takes place on Saturday 23rd at 16:00.  This of course precedes Révélations (see last post).

The Foire aux Santons opens on 23rd of November opposite the Brasserie la Rotonde. All the main santonniers will be there, selling their little Provencal figures to decorate cribs. But the official inauguration takes place on 1st December at the Eglise Saint-Jean Baptiste de Faubourg (cours Sextius).  Actually this is the church in which Cézanne married the long-suffering Hortense so it’s a good opportunity to see inside.  Provencal music starts at 9:30 followed by the Messe des Santionniers at 10:00.  There will be traditional music and dancing by the stalls themselves at 11:30.  For info, please see http://www.visitprovence.com/agenda-culturel/tous/provence/3128-foire-aux-santons.  The santonniers will be co-operating once again this year on putting together the large display in the cours Mirabeau just down from Monoprix.  It’s a really excellent panorama of Provence at Christmas, from the Camargue across to the calanques via the Sainte-Victoire. It’s fun to spot all the traditional characters – the lavender-seller, the pizza-maker, the village gossip, the shepherds – as well as the holy family.

December 1st is also the date for the annual International Christian Community of Provence Carol Service in the Cathedral.  Unmissable!  The service itself starts at 16:00 but is is preceded by music from 15:30. You really need to be in there then to get a seat.  It’s a large Cathedral but it gets absolutely packed for this popular carol service.  It’s a lovely start to the Christmas season.  There is also a Scandinavian Service at the Cathedral which celebrates  the coming of the light and the feast of Santa Lucia.  This year it is on December 13th.

Back to markets.  The International Marché des Villes Jumelles will be taking place on 4-8th December in the big square near the Office de Tourisme.  See here for a list of these twin towns who will be selling their food, wines and craft items – good Christmas presents.  http://www.aix-jumelages.com/

The Fontaine aux Jouets will be operating on 14th December.  Basically the big fountain in the centre of the place de Hotel de Ville is drained and used to stockpile nearly-new/good-condition toys and items for the less fortunate children of the area.

Also 14th and 15th December, the annual Fete de l’Huile d’Olive en Provence where you can stock up on tapenades, biscuits, oils but also items made from olive tree wood, like salad bowls.

Provence-wide, this list is just the tip of a very large festive iceberg. Every village has Christmas markets, services and sometimes even living cribs.  Check out http://noel.org/PACA for details.